About 7 folder Ties

What is a 7 Fold Tie?

The term 7 fold refers to the construction of necktie. The tie is made out of a single piece of fabric that is folded 7 times. The result: A thicker feel, incomparable drape, a larger looking tie knot, and a more hefty weight – all these unique features are immediately noticed the first time you hold a 7-fold tie in your hand.

A true work of art and the epitome of luxury, the 7-fold tie is created by carefully folding the silk itself a total of 7 times. These continuous folds and pleats, created from large amounts of carefully selected silk, give the tie volume and lightness while still ensuring the correct bulk in the knot, despite a thin interlining.

SEVEN-FOLD TIES MEET THE STRICTEST DEFINITION OF A LUXURY ITEM: expensive, unnecessary, beautiful and indulgent. A cut above the pedigree of any standard necktie, a seven-fold tie wears its breeding on the inside—the seven refers to the number of times the rich fabric is folded into itself, origami-style, to form the shape of the tie without adding in a synthetic lining for shape. Borrowing from the ascot and the cravat in construction and material, it’s the modern embodiment of upper-crust neckwear.

a seven-fold silk tie is made with a large piece of fabric (three times the amount of fabric used in a standard tie) which is then folded seven times over for strength. Machines cannot create a seven fold tie. They can only be crafted by the hand of a skilled tailor. Labor intensity is majorly attributed for the tie's high cost, There is also a substantial waste of fabric, but a seven-fold proves its value when properly worn.the construction of the ties allows the tie to knot without binding and creates an exquisite dimple that spreads luxuriantly down from the neck. It drapes perfectly and never takes on the awkward folds.

Seven fold ties almost died out during the austerity of the Great Depression and the silk shortages during World War II and the ensuing civil war in China. And yet, over the last generation they have seen a remarkable come back.

Because seven-folds required more than twice the amount of silk of conventional ties, they were much more expensive to make, and consequently disappeared during the Depression. It was also nearly impossible to find any hand-sewers who still knew the technique.

The history of men’s clothing is always told through the same types of characters: the honest and true craftsmen and the dastardly capitalists. In neckwear, it’s said that the traditional method of making neckties is through the seven-fold, where a single square of silk is folded upon itself seven times – without any lining – to give a distinctive shape and lightness. This construction supposedly disappeared sometime in the post-war period. Some say it’s because the nuns who made them stopped producing for companies. Others say it’s because the technique required too much material and labor. Once manufacturers found how to sew two smaller pieces of silk together to reduce wastage, and fold the silk just three times over a wool interlining, the seven-fold was doomed. Manufacturers were seduced by the higher profits, and consumers baited with cheaper prices.

It’s not clear though if seven-fold ties ever really disappeared. Some have seen ads for them in American magazines from the 1930s, and Mariano Rubinacci once said that he remembers selling them in Naples in the 1950s. Anna-Lisa Calabrese – from the company that bears her family name – remembers them being called “cravatta ventaglio” or “fan tie” for the way the folds would fan out.

The history of traditional neckwear may be unclear, but it is clear what the seven-fold tie achieves. With little or no lining in the collar area, a seven-fold can feel very soft and light. In this way, it’s somewhat akin to Neapolitan tailoring, where the construction is often made with less padding and structure, to give the wearer a bit more comfort and casual sensibility.

When made, it also requires over a yard of material. The traditional technique uses just a single square, though nowadays it’s common to sew three pieces together to get the necessary length. Once folded, the back seam is hand sewn, the edges hand rolled, and the resulting tie gently hand pressed so it maintains its shape. For a necktie aficionado, this construction can feel a bit more artisanal and unique.